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Mycocosmetics are a recently emerging trend in cosmeceuticals looking to utilise the power of mushroom-based ingredients when developing products for skin. Enriched in bioactives and nutrients, these bodies have potential to protect and strengthen skin in several ways from sensitivity to ageing, and can be used in multiple formulations to help achieve these goals efficiently and naturally.
What we know:
Mushrooms contain several key ingredients like proteins, vitamins, b-glucans, riboflavin, and niacin that are able to promote healthy processes in the skin such as wound healing, moisturising, nourishing, and protecting against sun damage (Wu et al., 2016).
Enriched in bioactives e.g. polysaccharides and phenolics, mushrooms also have the potential to provide immunomodulatory, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory effects that may provide additional benefit for those with damaged or sensitive skin (Wu et al., 2016).
Some of the most popular species used in topical product formulations include shiitake, oyster, portobello, and cauliflower mushrooms, with this popularity due to an abundance of beneficial mycochemicals for the skin like antimicrobial alkaloids, anti-inflammatory phenols, and antioxidant saponins (Wu et al., 2016).
Mushroom extracts can be used as ingredients in cosmetic formulations to treat a variety of skin conditions, many possessing anti-tyrosine, anti-hyaluronidase, anti-elastase, anti-collagenase activity to limit issues like hyperpigmentation, increase skin suppleness, and maintain skin elasticity and structure (Taofiq et al., 2016).
Individual bioactives found in mushrooms that drive these effects include p-Coumaric acid, which is able to reduce hyperpigmentation up to 77% in human skin, ascorbyl coumarates that promotes collagen release by up to 191%, and ergothioneine, which suppresses MMP-1 (collagen degraders) activity by 52% (Taofiq et al., 2016).
Industry impact & potential:
With a recent push in the cosmetic industry to use natural, clean ingredients, brands are looking to supplement their formulations with mushrooms. Origins has launched their Dr Andrew Weil line of Reishi mushroom-extract infused creams and serums to provide instant hydration, barrier boosting and defence against environmental stressors. Herbar’s The Face Nectar contains several mushrooms like Turkey Tail, Matsutake, Tremella, and Reishi to promote hydration, vitality, firming, and skin evenness.
Our solution:
Our end-to-end invivo testing platform offers clients the opportunity to test the efficacy of their mycocosmetic formulations in addressing their primary target areas of concern for the skin. We also offer personalised formulation guidance to help optimise and refine your product and Gold Standard Certification for skin care, as well as mushroom-infused products addressing hair care, oral, and vaginal concerns to validate your brand.
References:
Taofiq O, Heleno SA, Calhelha RC, Alves MJ, Barros L, Barreiro MF, González-Paramás AM, Ferreira IC. Development of Mushroom-Based Cosmeceutical Formulations with Anti-Inflammatory, Anti-Tyrosinase, Antioxidant, and Antibacterial Properties. Molecules. 2016 Oct 14;21(10):1372. doi: 10.3390/molecules21101372. PMID: 27754433; PMCID: PMC6274557.
Wu Y, Choi M-H, Li J, Yang H, Shin H-J. Mushroom Cosmetics: The Present and Future. Cosmetics. 2016; 3(3):22. https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics3030022
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