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Neurocosmetics is an emergent practice in the personal care space focusing on the connection between the nervous system and skin when designing formulations for products. Neurocosmetic ingredients have the capacity to influence the chemical and electrical modes of communication between the brain and skin to deliver more effective products and treatments when considering skin response to ageing.
What we know:
The close connection between the skin and nervous system means the two share similar physiological functions (i.e., thermoregulation, sebaceous secretion and melanogenesis) allowing them to communicate using neuropeptides and nerve impulses and respond to environmental stimuli e.g. chemicals, ultraviolet light rays, and temperature (Rizzi et al., 2021; Glatte et al., 2019).
Neurocosmetics have the capacity to affect the brain’s response to topical skincare treatments to increase their effectiveness and can act through various means such as botulinum-like peptides (i.e., hexapeptides or plant extracts) acting on cutaneous nerves to relax facial muscles & avoid wrinkle formation (Rizzi et al., 2021).
Achillea millefolium extract upregulates the expression of nervous skin receptors that decrease during the ageing process, with results showing increased epidermal thickness post-administration, and improved appearance of wrinkles and pores after 2 months of treatment (Pain et al., 2011)
Chronic exposure to environmental stress can trigger enhanced cortisol production by the brain, leading to immunosuppression, inflammation, impaired barrier function, and increased DNA damage in the skin. Application of an active inhibitor against the 11β-HSD1 enzyme rebalances these levels by blocking the cortisol synthesis pathway (Chen & Lyga, 2014; Imfeld et al., 2018).
Industry impact & potential:
Many companies have started formulating their own active ingredients for sale and use by other brands looking to amplify the efficacy of their formulations.
SEPPIC’s range of neurocosmetic ingredients emphasise the use of amino acid and plant extract compounds to protect the skin from stressors like antioxidants, inflammation, and anti-matrix metalloproteinase action. Givaudan’s active ingredient range includes Neurophroline® that works to break down cortisol production by releasing a calming neuropeptide that improves skin tone and anti-ageing effect.
Our Solution:
Sequential provides invivo Gold Standard testing of ingredient effect on the microbial, as well as physical properties of skin, with a specialist angle in the skin ageing market. Our service offers clients clinical studies to test the efficacy of your neurocosmetic ingredients or formulations on age parameters like corneometry and elasticity. We are also able to offer formulation support and INCI list examination to assess the effectiveness of your solutions for targeting ageing skin concerns.
References:
Chen Y, Lyga J. Brain-skin connection: stress, inflammation and skin aging. Inflamm Allergy Drug Targets. 2014;13(3):177-90. doi: 10.2174/1871528113666140522104422. PMID: 24853682; PMCID: PMC4082169.
Glatte P, Buchmann SJ, Hijazi MM, Illigens BM, Siepmann T. Architecture of the Cutaneous Autonomic Nervous System. Front Neurol. 2019 Sep 10;10:970. doi: 10.3389/fneur.2019.00970. PMID: 31551921; PMCID: PMC6746903.
Imfeld, D & Jackson, Eileen & Seroul, Pierre. (2018). Inhibition of cutaneous cortisol activation: A novel approach to protect skin from stress induced damage and aging..
Pain S, Altobelli C, Boher A, Cittadini L, Favre-Mercuret M, Gaillard C, Sohm B, Vogelgesang B, André-Frei V. Surface rejuvenating effect of Achillea millefolium extract. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2011 Dec;33(6):535-42. doi: 10.1111/j.1468-2494.2011.00667.x. Epub 2011 Jun 29. PMID: 21711463.
Rizzi V, Gubitosa J, Fini P, Cosma P. Neurocosmetics in Skincare—The Fascinating World of Skin–Brain Connection: A Review to Explore Ingredients, Commercial Products for Skin Aging, and Cosmetic Regulation. Cosmetics. 2021; 8(3):66. https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics8030066
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