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How do you Formulate Skincare Products?

Formulating skincare products is a process that combines different ingredients to provide targeted skin benefits. The type of product being used, the particular skin concern and the formulation's stability and effectiveness are some of the variables that can affect the formulation process.

Key Components of Skincare Formulation:
Choosing the right ingredients when formulating skincare products is important, as it determines the product's effectiveness. Moreover, the chemical composition of the ingredients and their concentrations in a formulation is as important as establishing its overall effect on our health. Most skincare products typically include 15 to 20 ingredients in their formulation (Goyal & Jerold, 2023).

Water
Ultra-pure distilled water serves as the foundation for nearly every cosmetic formulation, including creams, lotions, makeup, deodorants, shampoos, and conditioners. It functions primarily as a solvent, helping to emulsify ingredients and ensure a smooth and consistent texture in the final product (Goyal & Jerold, 2023).

Emulsifiers
Promotes the formation of a homogenous and consistent texture in the formulation by encouraging the suspension of water and oil (Goyal & Jerold, 2023).

Humectants
Humectants are crucial for the skin's hydration balance, moisture retention, and desiccation prevention. Multiple hydroxyl, carboxyl, or other polar groups found in humectants have the ability to create hydrogen bonds with water molecules, which allows them to absorb and hold onto moisture (Du et al., 2024).

Thickeners
Long carbon chains and polar groups like hydroxyl, carboxyl, and amide groups make up most of the thickeners. Within solutions, these long-chain structures increase the viscosity of the solution by increasing its resistance to flow (Du et al., 2024).

Preservatives
Preservatives are added to prevent the growth of pathogenic and non-pathogenic microorganisms that could degrade the product or negatively impact the consumer's health De et al., 2017).

Active Ingredients
Ingredients that offer therapeutic advantages and improve the efficacy of skincare products, such as hyaluronic acid, are used as active components in formulations (Morganti et al., 2023). Therefore, selecting the appropriate active ingredient is crucial to creating a high-quality skin care product (Calixto & Maia, 2017).

Stability testing and sensory analysis
The formulations afterwards need to be tested for their stability at different temperatures and for sensory evaluation such as spreadability, cohesiveness, consistency, firmness and viscosity (Calixto & Maia, 2017).

Targeting the microbiome with Skincare products
Our skin is home to millions of microbial species called the Skin microbiome. A balance of all these microbes is crucial to obtain healthy skin. Imbalances cause several skin problems such as acne, rosacea…etc. So when formulating skincare products it is important to investigate each ingredient's impact on the skin microbiome.

Conclusion
It is of great importance to carefully consider the ingredients that are put into skincare formulations whilst considering the skin microbiome. Developing safe and efficient products is frequently the main goal, there is also a growing tendency towards customisation based on the demands of each individual's skin. This trend towards customised skincare highlights the value of customised solutions in the beauty industry and represents a deeper awareness of the various needs of various skin types and conditions.

References

Calixto LS, Maia Campos PMBG. Physical-Mechanical characterization of cosmetic
formulations and correlation between instrumental measurements and sensorial properties. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2017 Oct;39(5):527-534. doi: 10.1111/ics.12406. Epub 2017 Jul 24. PMID: 28555924.

De Groot, A. C., & White, I. R. (2001). Cosmetics and Skin Care Products. Textbook of
Contact Dermatitis, 661–685.doi:10.1007/978-3-662-10302-9_32

Du XN, He Y, Chen YW, Liu Q, Sun L, Sun HM, Wu XF, Lu Y. Decoding Cosmetic
Complexities: A Comprehensive Guide to Matrix Composition and Pretreatment Technology. Molecules. 2024 Jan 15;29(2):411. doi: 10.3390/molecules29020411. PMID: 38257324; PMCID: PMC10818968.

Goyal N, Jerold F. Biocosmetics: technological advances and future outlook. Environ Sci
Pollut Res Int. 2023 Feb;30(10):25148-25169. doi: 10.1007/s11356-021-17567-3. Epub 2021 Nov 25. PMID: 34825334; PMCID: PMC8616574.

Morganti, P.; Lohani, A.; Gagliardini, A.; Morganti, G.; Coltelli, M.-B. Active Ingredients and
Carriers in Nutritional Eco-Cosmetics. Compounds 2023, 3, 122-141. https://doi.org/10.3390/compounds3010011

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